Can I clip lilacs and plant them?

I have a beautiful lilac tree and want one on the other side of the fence also. Can I clip a few stems and plant them? If yes, do I put one stem at a time about a foot apart or do I put 2 or 3 in one spot? Can I clip and plant or do I need to just buy another tree?


Thank You

Can I clip lilacs and plant them?
Lilacs can be propagated from root sprouts, by layering, by cuttings, and by cleft and bud grafts. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages in time and degree of difficulty. The easiest methods for the home gardener are root sprouts and layering, using a named variety. Growing lilacs from seed is not recommended. Because most lilacs are hybrids, plants grown fromseed will not produce plants just like the parent plant. Few seedlings are worthy of a place in the home garden. Root sprouts. Root sprouts provide the simplest and most usual way of propagating the common lilac. Some lilacs send out suckers near the base ofthe plant. Dig up these new sprouts in the fall and transplant them elsewhere in the garden or in a nursery. They often develop into satisfactory plants in about 3 years. This method, however, will not be satisfactory for grafted plants, because the suckers will not be like the tops of the plants. Look for a graft union near the soil line to determine if a plant is grafted. Layering is an easy, but slow process for increasing lilac plants in the home garden. The new plants are identical to the parent, even if the parent plant was grafted. It is a satisfactory method of propagation for the home gardener with limited equipment and time. Layering is most successful in spring or late summer, since cool weather is an aid to rooting. Start layering by working peat or leaf mold and sand into the soil where the branch is to be layered. Next, make a slanting 2 inch cut on the upper side of the branch about a foot from the tip. Dust rooting stimulant on the cut. Bend the branch down, and fasten it to the ground at a point between the trunk and the wound. Use a wooden peg or wire wicket, or simply weigh it down securely with a stone. Bend the tip upright at the wound, and as you do, twist the tip a half turn to open it. Then place another peg or pin over the branch at the point of the wound, and mound 3 or 4 inches of firmly packed soil over the wound. Place straw or leaf mulch on the mound, and water frequently. If you layer in the spring, the branch should develop roots by the following spring. If you layer in the fall, roots will develop by the second spring. When roots have developed, you can cut the new plant free fromthe parent. Leave the new plant in place for 3 weeks to recover from the shock of being cut. Then transplant it to a nursery bed and tend it for a year or more. To prevent water loss that can kill the new rooted layers, prune one-third of their original length from all side branches of these rooted layers as soon as you plant them in the nursery bed. As a further measure to prevent water loss, screen the new plants to shade them from the sun. A makeshift screen will do—burlap or other porous material on a simple wood frame, for example. You can remove the screen after the first winter. By then, plants should be strong enough to transplant from the nursery to their permanent locations. Cutting, cleft and bud grafts. Cuttings, cleft grafts, and bud grafts are still other methods of propagating lilacs. You can root lilac cuttings fromsuckers at the base of an older plant for use as understock. Cuttings from terminal growth of new wood can be grafted onto these. This method produces high quality plants.
Reply:Lilacs produce from runners. Dig up a runner or take a new growth clipping and use rooting hormone.
Reply:or bend the lower limbs of the tree, and put a stone on it..


At the end of the season, lift the stone and u will see roots.


Cut it and plant..



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